Surfed shorties last Sunday. Weather was wonderful. A warm breeze from the southwest. Sun overhead. The swell, however, was shit. Closed out, short intervals, all over the place. Foster and I paddled out anyhow. Caught one wave, found myself on the inside, struggling. Threw in the towel after an hour.
After lunch at
Left Coast Siesta, a burrito that nearly blinded me, Karissa and I headed north to Seaside.
Found a rather popular point break. Long lefts on the inside, big barrels on the end.
We watched for a while, wishing we hadn't just had lunch. Had two people approach me. One was friendly enough, the other was clearly out of pocket. To make matters worse, the next morning I met a Seaside native who told me he gave up surfing because everyone's attitude was so atrocious.
I suppose there's no place like home ;)
2 comments:
Were you surprised? On a Sunday perched right along the foot path? Not the best place to be setting up your tripod. I've been working my way into this place for 7 years and still can't get a set wave when the boys are out, not to mention the verbal abuse. Guys with cameras like yourself don't help the situation for other outsiders trying to keep a low profile. No matter how BS the whole scene is. And it is totally BS.
No tripod. Just a camera in my hand, girlfriend on my arm.
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