Absent Minded

At times I feel as though I can't keep my mind from wandering. Scribbling notes, moving from subject to subject, unable to relax. It's terrible, really. That said, and without trying to sound like a some sort of neo-hippie, searching for life's meaning in ocean swells, the only time I am able to enter a meditative state, one absent of thought, or distraction, is when I am surfing. When I absent-mindedly paddle for that approaching left, move my body from prone to erect, turn my board, step toward the nose. Those are the moments that I meditate, where my mind no longer wanders.

So, after a rather exhausting week, I was in desperate need of salt water. We awoke early on Sunday, caught the first ferry and headed for the straights. When we pulled up to Twin the tide was all the way in, farther than I have seen it in the past. There were two people in the water, each struggling to get into the foot high swells. We waited, watching the water, hoping that what we were looking at was only a lull. As one of the guys paddled to shore, a trio of waist high lefts appeared. That's all it took. I suited up and paddled out.

The first few were small, but fun. The swell direction was inconsistent, however as the tide receded the size increased. They were weak, though. I had to crouch, knees to chest, on nearly every wave. But I had the place to myself, so why complain. After four hours and countless waves, I was exhausted. We packed up and headed for the ferry just as gray clouds wandered from the west.

Click here for a few more photos.