tags: Questions and Answers
Similar in many ways to the Pacific Northwest, the coast of New Hampshire has, as far as I can tell, a handful of breaks offering a wide variety of waves. In this video produced by The Granite Stoke, Casey Lockwood talks about the winter surf season and the tight-knit tribe of surfers on the East Coast.
I keep telling Karissa I'd like to listen to jazz while I surf. Baker, Bird, Davis, Satchmo. Anything but that smooth shit. Reminds me of my mother. Anyhow. This video, which features Matt Chojnacki and Pops playing in the background, was filmed at Noosa Heads and showcases Chojnacki's 'involvement' style of surfing. The board, which was shaped by Bob McTavish, is a replica of what he and his friends were shaping and surfing some 46 years ago. Additional info is available here.
Jorgelina Reyero hails from the Atlantic Coast of Argentina and has spent the last six years travelling the world with her surfboard. When she found herself at Wategos Beach in Byron Bay, New South Wales she decided to mount a camera to the nose of her log in order to capture the beauty of an empty break.
What's this? An Italian surf flick shot in 16mm?! Sure is. And it doesn't suck. Filmed in the summer of 2010, Onde Nostre takes place, for the most part, on the Italian island of Sardinia. Directed by Luca Merli and Matteo Ferrari, the film captures the wide variety of waves available in the Mediterranean. Serious short board stuff and a little loggin. Beautiful bit of film. Subtitled so you know what's going on.
Dora did it, surfed sans leash. Shit, they all did. All of those bronze gods of the surfing '60s. No one knew any better, I'll give you that. But you have to think someone said it - "Why don't I tie a rope to this damn thing!? Save myself the swim?" Good idea, I suppose. But what was lost? Surely some soul. When that first guy wrapped rubber around his ankle. Secured himself to his surfboard - died, an era did. Over were the days of cautious consumption. Forever changed. Forever carefree. Facing monsters without worry. No need for well rounded watermen. We're all out there with our own little life raft. Safe and sound.
I'd like to see some digression. Back to a time when surfing wasn't so serious. When waves were fun. Not all this big wave little board business. Leashes and tow ropes. Back to a time when you were happy with the ones you had. When craftsmanship was common and your board was made by the hands of a man. Ramble on.
tags: Duke Dangerpants
Luckily, I have not been asked to discuss my lack of prowess on the water, but rather what one does after a long day on a board. I was informed that the go-to tipple for many surfers is beer. Makes sense really, it’s portable, not breakable (in a can), doesn’t need mixing, and can be purchased on the fly: no planning required. For those who crave a real cocktail after a surf session though, a little more planning is needed.
tags: Food and Drink
'BoardRoom' is a feature length documentary that highlights the pioneers of modern day surfboard shaping. Following the conclusion of World War II, surfers, looking for a better way to build lighter boards, began using polyurethane in place of redwood and balsa. The evolution of the surfboard was at hand and surfing would never be the same. The film, which "pays homage to the men who created the boards and also shaped this industry," features a handful of legendary shapers such as Greg Noll, Hap Jacobs, Donald Takayama, Larry Gordon, Robert August, Dick Brewer and Terry Martin.
Noll Surfboards and Billabong have teamed up to created a ten-piece apparel line inspired by one of surfing's greatest, Greg Noll. According to Greg's son Jed the new Billabong collaboration is "a worthy tribute to the roots of surfing and those who pioneered the North Shore and beyond." The collection, which will be available at the end of March, includes board shorts, t-shirts, tank tops and 200 pairs of signed and numbered “Jail House” trunks that will be sold in an online auction starting March 22nd.
Additional info here.
tags: Expression Session
- Tyler Hatzikian
Chasing Dora is the story of three California surfers who travel to Jeffreys Bay, South Africa to host a competition inspired by one of surfing’s most iconic personalities, Miki Dora. And while he disliked the idea of competitive surfing, Dora felt that the ultimate test of a surfer would be a contest for the longest wave, on a self-made wooden board, sans leash, in eight foot swells, wearing nothing but wool trunks.