1/31/12

The Seedling

Thomas Campbell's first film, The Seedling, is "a documentation of a small pod of California log riders. Shot entirely on 16mm." The film features Devon Howard, Joel Tudor, Seitaro Nakamura, Erik Sommer, Kassia Meador, as well as Skip Frye and Donald Takayama. An essential logging flick, "The Seedling is a gift for you, a movie in full trim." Click here to watch the first few minutes of the film.

Memo from the Surf Desk: Tres Generaciones?

Jesus. Look at these sorry bastards. Tres Generaciones? More like a couple of potheads and a pompous asshole. Imagine these three in the water, playing Grab-Ass in the lineup. No one would have a wave. But let's be honest, can they even surf? My guess is that they'd need a canoe to catch a goddamn wave. Where'd you find this photo, Mr.Coffey? Clearly some idiot thought you three looked good together. History in the making? How about has-been's and a never-was. Let me suggest something, gentlemen - forget this surf shop slash blog bullshit and just stick to riding desks and delivery trucks ;)

Sincerely,

Duke Dangerpants

1/30/12

Sports Illustrated - May 18, 1964

In May of 1964, a small group of Southern California surfers were featured in Sports Illustrated. The piece centered around the burgeoning So-Cal surf scene and what swimsuits these young folks were wearing. Ricky Young was among those photographed for the magazine.

1/27/12

Friends With Benefits

Early last Spring, on a weekend trip to a western beach break, Karissa and I noticed something sitting beneath a tree not far from our camp - a green(ish) 1975 Volvo 245 DL station wagon. Flat hood, round headlights, roof rack and a Humboldt State University sticker across the back window. Who owns this thing?! Clearly some wild-eyed, long hair hippie from Northern California! But what on earth are they doing here, on this long forgotten piece of land at the end of our great state?

The Black Knight of Malibu

"My whole life is this escape; my whole life is this wave I drop into, set the whole thing up, pull off a bottom turn, pull up into it and shoot for my life, going for broke man. And behind me all this shit goes over my back: the screaming parents, teachers, police, priests, politicians, kneeboarders, windsurfers - they're all going over the falls headfirst into the reef; headfirst into the fucking reef, BWAH! And I'm shooting for my life. And when it starts to close out, I pull out to the bottom and out to the back, and I pick up another one and do the same goddamned thing again."

- Miki Dora

Sight | Sound



Produced by Mickey DeTemple, the surfer-slash-director responsible for Picaresque, Sight | Sound is another film free of dialogue, featuring a group of talented surfers doing what they do best. Set to a rather eclectic soundtrack, DeTemple's new flick is available at most of our local surf shops.

1/24/12

Surf Hell's Kitchen

New York is a big city. Bars on every block, restaurants and retail shops all over the place. But a surf bar in the Big Apple? A little slice of paradise amidst the chaos. Nothing's missing in New York. Named after a small French island located in the Indian Ocean, east of Madagascar, RĂ©union is located in the basement of an old building in Hell's Kitchen, on the northeast corner of 44th and 9th. The sign out front reads: 'Turn an average Beach Day into an EPIC TALE OF RADNESS.' Sounds like my kind of show.

1/18/12

The Wolves



Off his debut album, Every Kingdom, here's Ben Howard's latest song, 'The Wolves,' set to some footage from Protect Our Waves, a film directed by Richard Stewart, starring Gabe Davies and Nathan Phillips.

1/17/12

Climate Change

I thought I was ready to move. Somewhere south. Somewhere warm. I thought that somewhere else might solve my problems... and then I surfed in the snow. I know, it sounds strange. You'd think that surfing in the snow would produce the opposite effect - sending me south even sooner. But it did just the opposite. It reaffirmed my forgotten feelings for the Northwest - Allow me to explain.

1/15/12

The White Buffalo



What I've been listening to lately.

1/13/12

Memo from the Surf Desk: White Devils

Strong off-shore winds create walls of white water. Tumultuous, terrible waves. Pushing in from across the Pacific - or a storm somewhere to the north. You surf them, though. I have. But they're more fear than fun. Sliding down the face of that big white devil. Feet at the back of your board. Arms outstretched, reaching for something... stability perhaps. Bottom turn is always a bit late. Back up that bloody thing. That face. Into the pocket, down the line. Too afraid to look over your shoulder. You know the bastard is back there, chasing you. But you don't want to see its face. The bully. Looking to pound your chest, knees on your elbows so you can't fight back. The bastard. There's ways to avoid these confrontations. The beating you'll likely receive when playing with white water. You can stay home. Stay warm. But where's the fun in that? What good would that do you? Someone has to dance with the devil.

Sincerely,

Duke Dangerpants

The Progress Project - Recycled Billboard Bags

Made from reclaimed and re-purposed billboards (UV treated vinyl that is both tear resistant and water proof), these board bags are the result of a San Diego surfer with a passion for ecology and reclaimed materials. Dubbed 'The Progress Project,' the bags are handmade in So-Cal and feature 1/4" closed cell foam padding, "which acts like one of those soft coolers you keep your lunch in." They range in size from six to ten feet and include a removable shoulder strap and a lifetime warranty.

Follow the link for additional information.

1/12/12

Rainbow Sandals

This a story about a pair of flip-flops. A story about how sponge-rubber and strips of leather, glued together at a small shop in San Clemente, came to be a part of me, an extension of my southern most extremities. How they've traveled the world, from Shanghai to Sorrento, Normandy to the North Shore. How they protected my feet when I had to run seven miles through Ricketts Glen looking for a lost co-worker. How they've collected sand, crossed streams, killed flies, climbed mountains and fallen victim to campfires.

Todd Fischer



Our friends from NW Surf & Snow recently visited Todd Fischer at his home on the Olympic Peninsula. A celebrated surf artist who finds inspiration in the water, Todd talks about his first few waves, what inspires him to paint and why he loves the Pacific Northwest. Additional info is available here.

1/11/12

Dawn Patrol

There's something special about dawn patrol in the dead of winter. The light frost on your windshield, the gray clouds looming overhead. Your nose turns red. Oxygen escapes and forms a faint white cloud around our face. Strapping your board down can be a bit of a hassle. Your fingers are freezing and don't function as they should. You're eager to enter the controlled climate of your Subaru. Your leather seats are cold, though. After a slice of toast and a cup of coffee, you hit the road with the other early birds - Weekend Warriors on their way to find a fix. Wild-eyed junkies at the wheel of their own Outback.

Always Remember Me



While visiting the Indonesian island of Bali, Ry Cuming played a few shows at Deus Ex Machina's 'Temple of Enthusiasm' in Canggu. This is a clip from the last set he played before returning to Los Angeles.

1/9/12

Nearly Knee High

Don't get me wrong, I love shoulder high swells. But when they're small and shapely, knee to waist high, I seem to have the most fun. I take more time. Paddle into fewer waves. I look for the longest left, unwilling to settle for something short. I want enough time to make my way to the nose, to stand upright over Waikiki. Saturday was that sort of day. Small, shapely and shit loads of fun.

West End Surf & Skate

Located just off of Highway 101 in "downtown" Forks, the West End Surf & Skate is a small shop owned and operated by my friend Darren and his wife Leah. The West End is the only shop in the area and stocks a wide variety of surfboards, skateboards, wet suits and casual clothing.

1/6/12

Locals Only

Let's face it, surfers are known for their gentle nature. I know, there's some serious gang shit going on in Australia, and the ever present beef between kooks and the honored members of surfing's "secret society," but really, we're more like golfers. Surfing is an activity, a skill acquired over time, not a sport. We're fighting nature - wind and sea - we should not, in my opinion, be fighting one another.

Jazz The Glass



Here's the trailer for 'Jazz The Glass,' a new pirate surf movie produced by Mike Black and Stoke Films.

Surfing Hollow Days


"In 1961, I made my fourth film, Surfing Hollow Days. The world of surfing was changing. Most of the boards were now made of foam, surfers were doing more traveling (often on jets, which were replacing prop planes) and Phil Edwards became the first person to ride a seemingly unridable spot which became known as the Pipeline.

The world outside of surfing was also changing. Gidget Goes Hawaiian played at local drive-in theaters, Dick Dale rocked sold-out Southern California auditoriums and The Beach Boys, who once played during the intermission at one of my earlier films, were about to make their assault on the music charts. Surfing was becoming "cool." People who didn't know a standing island pullout from a pop out surfboard suddenly wanted to get involved with the surfing "lifestyle." They still do.

I have no idea what the surfing "lifestyle" means. We simply built our lives around surfing. Hobie made boards. Grubby Clark made foam blanks. I made films. For some of us things worked out well, but our approach towards life and our perception of surfing hasn't changed.

What is or was the surfing "lifestyle"?


- Bruce Brown

1/4/12

Should've Surfed Seaside?

Surfed shorties last Sunday. Weather was wonderful. A warm breeze from the southwest. Sun overhead. The swell, however, was shit. Closed out, short intervals, all over the place. Foster and I paddled out anyhow. Caught one wave, found myself on the inside, struggling. Threw in the towel after an hour.

Bill's Tavern & Brew House

Bill's Tavern & Brew House is located on North Hemlock Street in the small coastal town of Cannon Beach, Oregon. The only brewery in the area, Bill's offers your standard variety of pub fare and craft beers; Blonde, Pilsner, Pale Ale, IPA, Stout and Porter. What makes Bill's different, at least in my opinion, is their Blackberry Beauty, an effervescent amber brewed with locally sourced blackberries.

1/3/12

Shit Show

Southwest swells sent us to Oregon for the weekend. Left early Saturday morning, two longboards on top of the Subaru. Rented a small cabin at the Sea Ranch RV Park, a campground at the northern end of Cannon Beach. After unloading the car, we drove into Ecola State Park shortly before noon. Tide was coming in. Onshore winds. Short intervals. No one in the water. Decided to spend the day on dry land.

Estwing Sportman's Axe

My father always kept a hatchet in his van. Told me he never wanted to be without a weapon - he almost always carried a pocket knife. His hatchet of choice was Estwing's Sportsman Axe; a one piece forged steel axe that features a stacked leather handle, three inch long cutting edge and blunt backside, perfect for hammering nails and tent stakes. They are made in America and cost roughly $40.

You can purchase one here, or at your local hardware store.

Surf Wagon: Foster's Syncro Vanagon

This is a 1987 Volkswagen Vanagon Syncro, which is piloted by my new found friend, Foster Huntington. The author of numerous blogs, to include #vanlife and The Burning House, Foster drove down from Portland to brave the blown out waves along the Oregon coast this Sunday. We struggled more than we surfed. Still had fun. Foster has been living in this van for four months, by the way. He has been travelling about the country photographing the shit people would pull from their homes assuming it were on fire. His collection of photos will soon be available to purchase.

In the interim, Foster and I will find something to surf.

Merry Christmas!

For Christmas, my girlfriend's mother bought me a subscription to The Surfer's Journal. A first. Not sure why I've never subscribed. My father used to buy them off the newsstand when I was a kid. Had a collection that went well into the 90's. When Cheka-Looka relocated to Fremont, I donated my father's collection to the shop. Not sure where they went. Suppose they're somewhere in Jeff's garage ;)

In this particular issue, Nathan Meyers highlights Deus Ex Machina and their 'Temple of Enthusiasm' on the island of Bali (a most inspiring piece of property) while Kimball Taylor retraces Bob Simmons' Oahu bike tour, searching for the origins of Pipe surfing in the process. A must read.

You should subscribe.