The Tale of Ten Thousand Tacos

You fuel the machine. Add the appropriate ingredients. A Breakfast burrito. An Iced Americano. Maybe a Morning Glory muffin, or some kind of soup or salad. But sometimes the machine requires things it ought not to. Rye whiskey. Pizza with jalapeƱo peppers. Ice cream in the afternoon. Overindulgence. You get the idea. You do it too. So stop looking at me like that! Yes, this is my second slice. Go fuck yourself! All of those inappropriate ingredients, however, have an ill effect on how well the machine works. How well the machine surfs. Etc. Living on beer and pizza for a few weeks will leave you feeling like fuck. Your heart heavy, stomach stretched. Dehydrated and discombobulated. A different type of tired. You'll sleep later than you should. You'll skip the sunrise session. You'll search for excuses. Because living on the road isn't for everyone. It requires a rather unhealthy amount of alcohol and ice cream sandwiches... No, that's not true. That's just what happens when two dudes decide to spend six weeks driving up and down the California coast searching for surf. Two dudes who have a similarly small amount of self control. Who say 'yes' when they should really say 'no.' But what fun comes from avoiding everything that seems inappropriate? What experiences are you obviating when you go to bed before midnight, when you eat just two tacos instead of eight, when you turn the music down and order plain pizza?! Live a little. Just don't die. Yet.

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Noosa Festival Fourteen

Fantastic bit of film from our friends at Foam Symmetry highlighting the 2014 Noosa Festival.

Forty Four

Corey Colapinto surfing the new model 44, built by Christian Wach at Canvas Surfboards.

El Co.

I have a rather unhealthy obsession with late-seventies and early-eighties El Caminos. Piles of shit as far as most people are concerned. Almost always underpowered (and ugly?), this iteration of Chevrolet's truck-car-combo featured an abundance of silly chrome strips, cheap plastic pieces and uncomfortable cloth interiors. And yet, I love them. There's this fantasy that plays in my mind at night, when I can't sleep and craigslist is all to accessible... I'm driving downtown, the dark city streets lit by lanterns and the ambient glow of all-night eateries. In the bed of my all-black 1979 El Camino is some type of two-stroke dirt bike, just begging to be kicked over, to make everyone mad. Smokey burnouts and wild fuck-off wheelies in the midst of the Great American Gold Rush. Internet nerds peering over the top of their MacBook Pros from the controlled quiet of their coffee shops, feeling both envious and unsettled at the same time. "Who is this crazy bastard, clearly disobeying the laws of our subdued city?!" A fantasy, yes, but one within reach. I've already got a cookie jar full of coins, ready to pay the impending infractions.

The Witching Hour

Steven McLean surfing toward sunset. Brought to you by Longboard Retro Days.

From the Phone - Vol.5

I've gone back and forth about cameras and overpriced image capturing equipment. Stumbling around with tripods, filters, lenses, et al. I love the color and clarity they can capture, the consistency and the confusion. And yet I find myself, like a lot of people I presume, not carrying a camera, but instead relying on a device that is my all-in-one, work from the road, Skype your friend Steve in Albania, email your mom in Arizona, take silly pictures and, on occasion, talk with words not letters. That said, during my six week long #peelgrimage to Southern California, I shot an odd assortment of images, some of which you may have already seen on Instagram, others I've kept quiet. Follow the link and take a look.

The Robert Harold

Beau Young riding the 'Robert Harold,' a log inspired by boards his father rode in the mid-sixties.

Surfer Saltado

Here's the fourth episode of Justin Quintal's four part Peru series. Filmed and edited by Drew Miller.

Music & Me

What I've been listening to lately...

No City in Sight

The road, it rules. Steering your wheels, aimed somewhere south. Searching for some kind of conclusion, an answer to that question you can’t quite ask. Fuel moves fast. The tank full and you feel free. Options are endless. You look ahead; a long stretch of pavement, at the end is another side of yourself. A new edition, modified by your experiences. You talk about The Timeline. From a distance it seems straight, but the closer you look the greater each experience, each action becomes increasingly more important.

Ups and downs. Like a heart monitor at the hospital. You push on the pedal. Time travels. The plateau passes. As the sun begins to set you see a city at some distance. Tall, dark towers. Smoke stacks and skyscrapers. Etc. An ever important part of the process. Producing. Reproducing. Consuming.

You find a place to park.

If you wondered what matters most, that thing that’ll wake you up from some kind of drug or alcohol induced delirium, you need look no further than the peeling waves of the Pacific. The sound of surf. Waves crashing over round rock. It’ll take everything in you. You’ll pull your face from that pink sparkle pillow that your mom made you. You’ll put pants on. A shirt. You’ll climb out of the van and rub your eyes, your brain trying to bang its way out the back. The sun shines. Bright, with big shadows stretched across the parking lot pavement. You’ll wear a wetsuit. You’ll stumble over the stones.

You paddle your Pig.

The first one won’t work. Tired. Alcohol still in your system. A fuzzy spot in front of your face. An hour will pass and then, like a dial turned to ten, you’ll connect. Section with section, lines across the face, trimming, tip-toeing toward the tip. Words you’ve used to describe your experiences once or twice - wasted words. As this experience, this blip on your terminal timeline, will disappear into the distance, just as the road rolls on endlessly at times. With no city in sight.

Hatzikian & Howard

The guys at IFILMSURF put together this short clip featuring Tyler Hatzikian and Devon Howard.

The Bing Surf Shop

After nearly two years of planning, Royce Cansler, in conjunction with Matt and Margaret Calvani, has opened the new Bing Surf Shop in Leucadia, CA. Located along the Pacific Coast Highway, a stone’s throw from Beacon’s, the new shop is a surfboard showroom that highlights the wide variety of shapes, shirts and other equipment that Bing has to offer. Inside the shop you'll find all kinds of eye candy, from Pucks and Ravens, to Silver Spoons and the new Mr. Rodgers Model. Clothing, eyewear and apparel is kept to a minimum, allowing the shop to focus on what Bing does best, building beautiful surfing boards. Follow the link for some more photos of their new surf shop.