7/11/11

Seventeen Seconds

When I checked the report before leaving town on Friday, a few of the sites were reporting one foot swells with seventeen second intervals. But when we woke up on Saturday morning, the waves were well overhead, aided by offshore winds. Build it did. Seventeen seconds and a sandbar. We paddled out for an awesome little left that was breaking at the north end of the beach, while a few of our friends with short boards took advantage of the bigger swells to the south.