4/30/12

It's Never Normal

Sunday was smaller. Karissa caught waves. Waist high. One direction, then the other. There wasn't any wind. It was wonderful. Had a handful myself. More Pepsi than Diet Coke. Clear skies? Not a chance. Pulled into a few that stood six feet, maybe more. Rising up over a sandbar somewhere in the middle. I was out there with some smallboarders. Shocked when the Blue Banana washed up on shore. Sans leash. Brought out a few big bottom turns. Step on the tail, turn with your hips. Put five up front. Like a cat stretching it's claws. Kept my hood on most of the morning. It was kinda cold. Karissa caught a long left. Paddled up to me and said, "It's kinda weird out here." I told her it's never normal.


One and then another.

Left or right?

Glassy.

I call this one "The Awkward Hug."

Toes. No nose.

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