Two Flat

Hoping to avoid the shit show that is Christmas, Karissa and I planned to head west first thing Sunday morning. But with heavy winds and precipitation in the forecast, we decided to skip surfing and stay home for the holiday. Monday was a different story. We managed to get out of bed at a reasonable hour, load the Subaru in record time and catch the 7:50am ferry. Dawn patrol? Not quite. But who gives a shit. We were in the water before noon.

A western swell pushed past our favorite point break. It was flat as a pancake. There was one person in the parking lot who said he'd had a few chest high waves earlier in the day. King tide killed it, though. Crescent was big, but closing. There were only a few people in the water when I paddled out. First wave was a right. I hate rights. But I had a reasonable ride. Second wave I went left. Looked good... at least from my angle. The rest of my waves were rights. Short but sweet. Last one swallowed me whole :(

Can't complain, though. A bad day in the water beats a good day in the city.