Two Big

It's interesting how a spot can change. One weekend it's small and forgiving, the next it's overhead and angry. When we headed out on Sunday, we were ready for the later. You see, last weekend was the first time I'd surfed in the winter. Often preoccupied with shotguns or snowshoeing, I just hadn't been able to motivate myself to surf in the winter. But this year is different. I am determined to surf every weekend until the spring.

Sunday was big. Well overhead and windy. There weren't many people in the water. A friend of mine from Oly, one of the best surfers I know, won wave of the day, hanging ten on a head high left. I had my fair share. Surfing without a leash, my confidence level was about half of what it should have been. Managed to keep my shit together, though. Pulled into half a dozen overhead waves, the last of which took my board to the beach and forced me to swim to shore. You live and learn. Next weekend I'll bring a leash.

3 comments:

Wave Farmer said...

Don't bring a leash...
Just work on hanging on to the board...
Pays off in the end.

Anonymous said...

Keep you surfing to yourself and just talk about the stoke. No one needs a commentary on our winter season, accept kooks.

Nice blog though, just keep it clean so we can continue to enjoy the rarities we have.

Justin W. Coffey said...

Commenting anonymously suggests that you're someone who's generally afraid to voice their opinion, willing to do so only in an environment where there's limited repercussions.

Also, I'm not sure how, or why, I should "keep it clean."

I appreciate the feedback, though.

And kooks don't usually surf in the winter, no matter the commentary or condition.

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