May Day

And then there's that day. The one that makes all those ugly ones worth the waste. The winter months without. The cold and the rain and the wind. It's almost unbearable. But this'll make it better. Because the wind wasn't from the west. And the waves weren't closing out like a grocery store after Easter. No. There were golden green faces and long white tails across the top. There were lots of lefts and just the right amount of rights. We surfed for six hours. Maybe more. The sun was starting to set at the end of our second session. Exhausted. Angel and Andy had arrived and were putting on their wetsuits when I wandered back from the beach. After a short shower and a small snack, I walked back just in time to catch our friend Cash making the most of what little light was left. I took a few photos, built a big fire with the boys and ate one too many tacos. Saturday, you did not suck.


Fiver.

Perky.

Cash Money.

Dark Angel.

The Right Way.

Last Light.

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