You can't count them all. Some days you just don't want to remember. Saturday was that way. Half as good as the day that was yet to dawn. But how were we to know. Beer was on my breath when I woke up, leftovers from a long night at Angel's - Ruthless Rye and candid conversations that lasted late into the evening. We managed to get going early, however. Early being relative of course. There was wind and waves and low tide and apprehension and all that other shit. When we finally settled on a spot - smaller than some of the other stuff we'd seen - only a few people had paddled out. It was alright. Some reasonable rides. Shallow water breaking over round rocks. Unfortunately, the swell shifted just as we decided to call it quits. Cleaned up enough I almost slipped back into my suit. Instead, I sat on shore and snapped a few photos before heading back for a BBQ.

The First Few.

Back Side Ways.


Five Footer.

Shoulda Stayed.

Square Shoulders.

Truth Serum.

Banana + Peanut Butter + Chocolate.


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