Six Feet Thirteen Seconds

It had been far too long. Months since I'd surfed there. A place that I call home. Far from everything. Disconnected. We didn't intend to drive all the way out. But offshore winds and a northwest swell sounded like the right recipe. So we skipped the Strait and drove all the way to the end. Looking for lefts. We arrived around noon. No one else was there. In our suits, out past the breakers, into the lineup.


Reasonable size surf. Smallest wave I saw was shoulder high. Short intervals, though. Forced us farther out than I prefer. Calmed down after a few hours. Smaller waves, longer intervals. Lots of lefts :)

I surfed the Stewart. Had a handful of head high waves. Ten piggies over. Surfed Karissa's new Bing before we called it a day. Same size stick, different dimensions. Caught lots of waves, just not much noseriding. All in due time. Two people paddled out after we came ashore. Not sure if they had any luck.

I'm ready for another two days away...

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