Van Diemans Waters



I've really come to appreciate Matt Chojnacki's 'involvement' style of surfing. A throwback to logging's last days, when short sticks and umbilical cords were still somewhat unseen. It's fast, this involvement stuff. Ten steps to the tip. Poised positions on the end. Drop knee cut backs that make Henry Ford's famous photo look, well, lackluster. It's not like we haven't already seen this stuff. But sometimes the second time is better than before. An upgrade! Retro-Mod or whatever. Anyhow. Check out this video, done by Nicholas Damen, featuring Matt Chojnacki and Andrew Warhurst surfing somewhere sunny.
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