When I went to pick up a new wetsuit from Wave Hounds, Todd tossed in a copy of The Living Curl. "You'll like this. It's old-school." With footage from the late fifties and early sixties, strung together and nasally narrated by Jamie Budge, this film was one of the first to show what was really going on in the water, at a time when Southern California surf pioneers were quickly becoming salt in a stew. Everyone was there, though. Lance Carson, Miki Dora, Dewey Webber, Johnny Fain, Mark Martinson, Corky Carroll. And there's lots of hot dogging, nose riding and So-Cal surfing sans crowd. So if you have a soft spot for films shot before all the bullshit, when surfing and style held hands and backside bottom turns were big business, pick up a copy of The Living Curl.
Named after it's likeness to the keys used to keep churches closed, a church key is what your grandfather used to crack a cold one. Okay, so what's with this throwback stuff? Well, according to their website "It’s about the joy of drinking good beer—from the people you drink it with to where you drink it and, now, how you open it." We can dig it. Which is why we snatched a six-pack. So, how'd it taste? Like a pilsner with a bit more bite. Worked well with hot dogs and hamburgers. And was it worth the effort? I'd say so. Something fun for when there weren't any waves. Beer is never bad.
Click here to learn more about the Churchkey Can Co.
tags: Brew Review
I paddled back out shortly before sunset. It was ugly out there. Grabbed a couple and came in. Sunday morning was the same story. Onshore wind and a small swell. Should have suited up at sunrise! There wasn't much to work with, so we spent the rest of the day cornholin' and killing time around the campfire. Monday morning made up for all of it, though. All of the onshore wind, the shitty swell, the rain and cloudy conditions. It was shoulder high or better when I first went out, and there wasn't any wind. Shared a peak with three other people. Had lots of lefts and a handful of rights. Even ran to the nose two or three times. It was the right way to end an otherwise ugly weekend!
Karissa can't make up her mind. One minute she wants a Surf Thump, the next a Nathan Adams. So on Friday, when she shoulda been working, she instead sent me this - a short video featuring Cyrus Sutton surfing an Aquatic Almond. Guess I'll add another log to her ever growing list. This one's a 9'7" pintail with a step deck, and was designed by Sutton specifically for surfing Cardiff Reef. According to Almond, "The outline is extra wide for stability and planning through sections... and the pintail has a slightly tucked rail for lively turns." Click here to learn more about Cy's Aquatic Almond.
And then came epoxy. Pop out pieces of shit, made in a mold. Soulless sticks. Not shaped but squirted - direct injection. They're vanilla to Bing's bubble gum. White rice to Almond's joy. I understand the appeal. They're fun and affordable. But they're anything but beautiful. There's no 10oz Volan or tinted resin. No glassed-on fins or five stringers. And you can't see the shaper's signature. The mark of a craftsman. Putting his name on something he's probably proud of. No. Instead you get a hollow hunk of expanded polystyrene, covered in epoxy resin. An ugly aesthetic and a sad signature. The mark of a man who's sold his soul. Sold his shape. So that GSI can sell more shit. More soulless surfboards.
tags: Duke Dangerpants
Short bit of film featuring Alex Knost and a small(er) single fin. Lots of butt down bottom turns and noserides to the right. Filmed by Tyler Manson before Al started with all that wild gesticulating and what not. Shawn hates the stuff. I'm on the fence, though. Do share your thoughts...
There were six or seven surfers in the water when we showed up. Wasting waves. I watched as one after another peeled past. Small boards just don't work well on small waves. It's the wrong recipe. So I suited up and paddled out. Took to the outside, against the rocks. First peak I paddled into was knee high. Up and at'em. Twas a long left on my log. Given what I'd seen scouting from shore, I didn't think I'd be sharing many waves. How wrong I was. A few photos for fun.
tags: Expression Session
- Terry Martin
Down the face the 4C felt fine, but the bottom turns were sloppy. Loose. Once I pulled into the pocket the 4C required me to stay toward the back of the board, trimming from the tail. It just seemed too short. Take a few steps forward and the Banana lost it's balance. All over the place up front. I became frustrated. Certain it was the fins fault. But alas, it was just the wrong tool attached to a long stick. I'd recommend the 4C to someone with a shorter board. Someone looking to make fast, loose turns, but maintain some stability down the line. I would not, however, suggest you affix the 4C to something you're accustom to making big, slow, calculated bottom turns on. Just wasn't what I wanted.
This Finterview originally appeared on Stoke Harvester's blog.
First spot was small, but fun. We caught a couple before Todd from Wave Hounds turned up. Packed up our boards and proceeded to another spot that Todd said was working. Sure was. A little bigger and a lot more fun. We had to hike in, between bushes and beach houses. It was worth the walk, though. Surfed until the sun started to set. Blackberry beer at Bill's, a slice or two from Pizza a'fetta and some ice cream at the other end of town. Saturday didn't suck.
About a year ago, while waiting in line for the ferry, the waterpump in my Jeep took a shit. Our friends at O'Reilley's were kind enough to deliver some coolant and a couple of radiator hoses, but the damn thing wouldn't stop overheating. Our day was done? I think not! Couple of calls, friends and family, and we were back in line for the ferry, this time at the wheel of the 'Silver Swede,' a 1989 Volvo 240 wagon.
What I've been listening to lately...
Love him or loathe him, Joel Tudor is a lumberjack. Malibu full of monkeys? Joel gets waves. Cardiff crowded with Stand Up Paddle people? Joel gets waves. Not sure where he went, though. Sorta slid off the map. All eyes on Alex I guess. But damned if he don't make loggin' look easy.
Friends, friends of friends, Facebook friends. I guess I was just excited to see so many logs in the lineup. Everything from old school single fins, to pigs and performance boards. More than twenty people paddled out. An evening session as the sun set. Jazzing the Glass. Loggin' the Buck. Oh, and when he wasn't in the water, Derek Sparks snapped some fantastic photos. Follow the link and have a look.
Everyone found a few waves that evening. Without any wind. Twenty plus people. Sharing surf. Singing Happy Birthday. Couldn't have asked for anything else. Swapped sticks and surfed a pig. So much fun. Words just won't work. Had a handful as the sun sank and the ocean turned orange. Decided to bring "Cowabunga!" back. So I screamed as Shawn scored a solid right. Stoke Harvester!
We all went in around eight. Built a big fire and watched as Karissa cooked hot dogs and jalapeno burgers. A couple of cold ones and lots of laughs. It's hard to explain how I feel. Elated. Amazed. Appreciative. All kinds of words. What a wonderful weekend. What wonderful people. Follow the link for a few photos.
I found Emily on the internet. No, not on some sketchy dating site for surfers, but on the entry list for the Australian leg of the ASP Longboard World Tour. She was the only Northwest Native on the list, and seemed eager to show the world that 'cold waves are cool.' After a few weeks in Australia, Emily has since returned home to Tofino and was kind enough to answer a couple of questions.
tags: Questions and Answers
Baja. The final frontier. Where freedom and fun, motorcycles and misbehaving make love. Sweet love. Enter Matix. Founded in 1998 by pro skateboarders Daewon Song and Tim Gavin, Matix makes clothing for those who do the daring. Like So-Cal surfers, Turkey Stopnik and J.J. Wessels. So with out further adieu, check out this short bit of film shot south of the border. Courtesy of 1000 Savage Comforts.
tags: Food and Drink
The Seea is a small women's surf suit company based in So-Cal. Committed to domestic production and sustainable design, Seea suits feature an elegant mix of retro-modern shapes and contemporary colors and prints. Mele Saili, an Artistic Director and Salty Sister, is the newest member of Seea's surf team. In this video, watch Mele surf her own "Mele" model G&S single fin somewhere down south.